I wasn’t sure quite what was in store for me when landing in Siem Reap. Besides a vague knowledge of Angkor Wat (another of my RTW trip pillars) and having heard wonderful things about the kindness of the Cambodian people, I knew next to nothing about the country’s history or present-day culture. Over the course of the next ten days I was the (usually) willing recipient of one Cambodian lesson after another, at times thrilling, at times heartbreaking, but all for the better as they left me a different person than the one that had arrived.

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